Wednesday, April 28, 2010

19 – 28 April In South Australia – Robe, Port Elliot & Kangaroo Island

In the spirit of this Aussie adventure, we have named our caravan Matilda (and she’ll be known as ‘Tilli’ for short) and the truck has been christened ‘Walt’, say no more……. We are total novices to caravanning and are slowly learning the ways of the caravan culture. We have had some big laughs as David has adopted  the obligatory hand wave to passing caravaners (only if they truly have a big rig). And if you are really ‘in the club’ it is just a four finger raise off the steering wheel! There has not really been much interaction besides the wave, but there is fascination on all fronts when your arrive, or a neighbour arrives – the kids now have instinctive knowledge of what represents class in a van. We’ve even started calling each other Mike and Mal during setup and lock down laughing at our own jokes…..you need a sense of humour on the road or you go stir crazy!! With all of this cold weather David has adopted the spirit of Shackleton (after being amazed with the book ‘Endurance’) and has decided to grow his hair and a beard until we reach the warmer weather or South Georgia…..so watch out for the progression of the ferrel look!! Dan is not joining him and will not be growing under arm hair….

We left Victoria and the erratic weather (ok, we did have some sun, but not enough) and headed for Robe - not famous for robes (ref: Bega Cheese commercial), across the border into South Australia. We stopped on the way at Mt Gambier, to check out the ‘blue lake’, yep, it’s certainly blue!! An amazing deep rich ‘blue-bottle’ blue , formed from a volcanic crater and limestone deposits.

With some practice at this now, we have learnt to research ahead on the internet and pick a park on the beach or in a national park (much nicer, less ferrel and often quite beautiful). In Robe, we landed the most spectacular piece of real estate overlooking the beach, and parked ‘Tilli’ right on the point. The girls were in another wonderland playing on the rocks around the beach, more riding of bikes and beautiful sunsets. Robe has an ‘obelisk’ that looks like ‘The Cat in the Hat‘, painted such, as originally it was all white and the sailors couldn’t see it against the limestone cliffs, so they added in the red striping. This was also the first week of our Sydney Distance Education Primary School work – a shock to all but Saskia!! We are learning to juggle the challenge of schoolwork , days on the road and always so many tempting things to see and do.

More Robe pictures

We passed the big lobster on the way Port Elliot, the first of our ‘bigs’ on this trip. It was the ANZAC Day long weekend. We arrived on Thursday to an amazingly quiet and well situated caravan park…..then on Friday over 150 groups arrived. Victorian weather chased us down – sun, wind, rain, sun….this time no hail. Amazing bike rides along the coast. A bakery with the biggest selection of pies – Sas is growing and knocked down two…they were good. Danielle hunted down  another farmers market and we enjoyed a beautiful seafood dinner right on the beach at Flying Fish – still no KFC or Maccas…..I think we are safe from that. The South Australian coast is littered with beautiful historic port towns and has a multitude of heritage buildings that seem to be lost in Australia’s bigger cities.
More Port Elliot pictures

Next, we headed over to Kangaroo Island – what an amazing place. From Cape Jervis, you catch a huge ferry across, caravan and all. It was a bumpy ride. Bella and Dan felt a little queasy and needed to go out the back for fresh air.  It was a six o’clock ferry, so a setup in the dark and off to the Penneshaw pub for a local seafood dinner (and the Waratah/Brumbies game). This was the girls’ first pub experience and they were wide eyed…….. exposure to the raw, local characters in the pub has left them with  an expanded vocabulary!

We visited Cape Willoughby (how could we not!) - an old light house on the eastern side of the island, then onto Clifford’s Honey Farm. The Island has its own breed of honey bees - LIGURIAN bees, originally from Liguria in northern Italy. They are the only Ligurian bees left in the world and there are strong quarantine restrictions. No honey products are allowed to be brought onto the island in order to prevent contamination and disease being introduced to this precious colony. We learnt about honey production and how they produce different flavours by moving the hives around to different species of flowers. We sampled honey ice cream, honey comb and bought some jars of local honey.

Then it was onto the ‘Island Pure’ Sheep Dairy. We loved doing the tour of this cute, boutique dairy that produces delicious cheeses and yoghurts and we were allowed to sample along the way, before watching the sheep file into their milking bays. We bought some cheese and yoghurt and have to say we are converts. They are truly yummy and so much more nutritious than cows milk products.

At Seal bay , we were able to walk right down to the edge of the beach on timber walkways to observe a fascinating colony of Australian sea lions in their natural habitat. There is something so beautiful about these creatures, who come in to the bay to rest on the beach and  the sand dunes after fishing at sea for 3 days with no sleep. We saw them sleeping like big slugs under the walkways and some on the shore, as well as young teenagers playing in the waves. It is very special to see them in their own environment and out of a zoo. The girls were treated to a talk from one of the rangers and were able to touch and feel the furs, skeletons and models on the “hands on” table in the learning centre. They learnt that the sea lions are in the seal family and that they were related to dogs, with their hind legs evolving over time into flippers. They also learnt the difference between fur seals and sea lions and that we NO LONGER wear fur seal pelts as fashion items!

Bella is horse obsessed and Dan loves them too. So, we hunted out a trail ride in the centre of the island at Tiger Trails and met two delightful ladies who took us on a very picturesque meander through the hills and by the creek. It was action packed, as some of the horses in the lead were spooked by some surprise kangaroos. The guide, David and Saskia were all thrown from their horses. Dan watched in horror, from behind, seeing everything happen in slow motion as they went down like dominoes . They were both shaken and bruised but otherwise OK……..thank goodness. I think we will stick to patting them over a fence for a while until we all get over it…..

After 2 days, we moved west on the island to Western KI Park & Wildlife Reserve - another little gem, brimming with free wildlife all around the caravan. Free ranging ducks and turkeys (we had to resist the temptation to throw one on the webber!) and kangaroos galore. We met some ‘Grey nomads’ (over 60’s!) from Mosman (small world) in their amazing off road camper trailer who were travelling together in a small group. It is refreshing to see all types of people from all walks of life choosing to get out of their comfort zones.

We have to say, the highlight of the island was an outing to Paul’s Place. Kangaroo Island really deserves its own posting and Paul’s Place could also warrant its own post. Paul was one of those unique, quirky and extraordinary human beings with a passion for wildlife, like Steve Irwin, that you can only HOPE to spend time with.  Paul has been collecting orphaned baby animals around the island since he was a little boy feeding and taking care of them. Over the years, his refuge has grown into what can only be described as a mini hands on interactive zoo – only it all takes place in his ‘backyard’. His passion has grown into a little sideline business and he has been opening to the public for the past 28 years, only opening every second day from 12 to 2 (this restriction for the animals benefit) for an animal encounter never experienced by city….or country kids!!
We were amazed, delighted, enthralled and even a little confronted by our intimate handling of – koalas, kangaroos, an echidna called cactus, a river python, baby possums, marsupial mice, emus, lamas, sheep, a camel, a laughing kookaburra called giggles, a huge variety of birds, a gorgeous gentle baby deer, a ram, a marran (like a lobster) and a crazy cattle dog called Jenna who was busy rounding all and sundry up. A small group of us spent two hours with Paul, who guided us through his menagerie of animals (whom he knows all by name and has a unique voice for calling them). We were constantly entertained by his antics. David was one of the men selected (quietly volunteered by his wife), to have emus eat grains off the top of his head and Danielle was chosen to wear the woolly hat and coat fashioned from the fleece of a sheep sheered by Paul. We’ll let the pictures tell the rest of this amazing story....

Finally it was onto “Remarkable Rocks”- the photos sum it all up. They are truly remarkable formations and are thankfully eroding slowly because they are formed from granite.

More Kangaroo Island pictures

We are heading up to Adelaide, then into the South Australia’s wine country to stock up on some good Riesling and Shiraz, before heading over to Streaky Bay and across the Nullarbor into WA…..bring on some balmy weather.



Over and out. Love to all xxxxxx

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

April 6 - 19: Lake Tyers, Wilsons Promontory, Phillip Island, Anglesea, Port Campbell & Port Fairy

We packed up and moved on to Lake Tyres and stayed on 90 mile beach. Very beautiful, wild and expansive ocean, but we did not think much of the town, so restocked our provisions and headed for Wilson's Promontory (locals call it 'The Prom').
Pictures: Lake Tyers

This is the most southerly point of the Australian mainland and is quite remote. It was a long tiring day in the truck. We had to stop for a service of the caravan and to learn how to operate water pumps and fridge without power as we would be on an unpowered site - i.e. use LPG.

A very cute echidna decided to cross the road in front of us and we managed to slow down enough to see him waddle by. We arrived at nightfall in the National Park at a campground called Tidal River. It was quite a challenge to fill our water tanks and figure out how to run everything on gas for the first time. The girls were tired and hungry, but real 'troopers'. We were all enthralled to see huge wombats foraging for food. They are so much bigger in real life!

Some teething problems meant a late cold shower for us and a fridge that wasn't working too well!! The thought did cross our minds.......are we having fun yet??????!!!!

We managed to move onto a powered site the next morning and salvaged all our cold provisions. So we all felt more positive!

The highlight of our stay was a gorgeous trek through the bush on a track that lead to Squeaky Beach, so called because when you walk in bare feet the quartz sand squeaks. The girls loved playing in the wet sand and covering Sas' legs with a mermaid tail. The 'lowlight' was later in the day with Bella coming down with a cold, sore throat and fever. Then at 1:20am in the dead of night our first caravan vomit and a sleepless night.

Danielle & Sas went for a beautiful rainforest walk (no shortage of rain here!!!). Sas was delighted to find a fairy grotto and a real pink toad stool. After dinner was a wombat spotting tour....saw three, and a possum.

The weather here is incredible. We have had wind squalls with pelting rain, blue skies, then more wind and rain. One night some tents were flattened. David had to get outside at 3:20am and semi-dismantle the gazebo before it flew off to Melbourne. The next morning there was a mass exodus from the park, and then some hail!!!
Pictures: Wilsons Promontory

We pushed onto Cowes on Phillip Island and stayed for 2 nights. It was a relief to have Victorian school holidays over as the caravan parks are so much more peaceful. You can secure a site with nobody next door, far enough away so you cannot hear snoring or farting or laughing or talking or ANYTHING!!!!........except the sound of the ocean.....ahhhh this is how it is meant to be! The huge winds and storms had subsided.....and we could finally say "How's the serenity?"
One cold night we ventured to do the view the very thing that Phillip Island is renowned for- its gorgeous fairy penguins. At dusk, we joined tourists from all over the world  to watch these adorable little birds swim ashore and gather in little groups on the sand, before marching in lines over the dunes and into their scrubland burrows. We were able to get so close to them, though photography was forbidden - TORTURE for the tourists (including us!), with cameras around their necks! The girls also had haircuts in the little town and are very excited to be now sporting side fringes.


One of the deal breakers for this adventure was that the caravan we bought HAD to have a toilet and shower or Dan was not coming! As David would be the maintenance man on tour, the other deal breaker was that David said he was only coming if the toilet was used for emergencies only - early morning or midnight needs! Now......with three girls on board there is always an emergency. We all had a belly laugh as we watched good humoured David roll away the toilet cassette to the dump point and yelled from he doorway of the caravan "Thank you Kenny- we love you!!" It has become the caravaning "taking the bins out".....always a blue job!!
Pictures: Phillip Island

Next we moved on to Anglesea. We took a day trip to Torquay the beginning of the Great Ocean Road and home of the famous Bells Beach. We stayed a couple of nights in a park right on the beach with fabulous climbing trees. The girls loved hanging in the tree for most of their playtime and built little swings from ropes and sticks. With Sas leading the play, they are both constantly in a world of fantasy and absolutely loving all the nature. Bella is our resident entrepreneur - she loves dreaming up how she will become rich or sell things along the way to make pocket money. She dug up a yellow rock and came running back wide eyed and excited to exclaim she had been mining and had struck gold! We could hear the school kids during their surfing lessons, such a coast of surf culture.
Pictures: Anglesea

We pulled up at the start of the Great Ocean Road and read the historical monuments. We learnt that it was constructed after the first world war as a memorial to lost comrades of the returning soldiers. It provided a source of employment for these men who were returning to a civilian life and now is the largest war memorial in the world! We were amazed with this incredible coast line and drove for most of the day to Port Campbell via Lorne. It is so amazing with kilometre after kilometre of vertical limestone rock faces carved out by the wild turquoise ocean. We stopped at the famous 12 Apostles, The Grotto and London Bridge, then stayed for a night in Port Campbell, again, by the sea. In the morning we did a bushwalk over the headland and looked back at the 12 Apostles in the distance, then enjoyed some sun by the lake while the girls had an art competition in their art books.


Many of our nights (and Bella wanting first thing in the morning) have been spent playing Phase 10. Currently, no surprise, the reigning champ is the highly competitive David.
Pictures: Port Campbell

We then headed for Port Fairy - a cute, historic little seaside port. We loved this little town and even found an organic farmers market to top up our supplies. We have been very surprised at all the beautiful little providores along the way - and pleased to announce NO KFC, MACCAS or anything close! Bike riding is still high on our agenda and we are loving exploring together (even though Bella gives us a heart attack now and again!)

All in all we are happy and settling in to this adventure very well. We are very over the rain and the cold though and are moving towards WA in search of balmy days and tropical waters. While we have had some gorgeous sun, we have had more rain than we would like and it certainly makes life challenging in a caravan!
Pictures: Port Fairy

Map:

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

April 1st 2010 - April Fools Day (how fitting for our Griswald adventure!) – here we go, The Shirleys, doing "A Lap of the Big Paddock!"

After months of preparation and the ENORMOUS logistical task of packing up our home , extracting our girls from school and their hectic extra-curricular activities, leaving jobs, relocating our dog Louis and our daughter Jasmine ,(who has stayed behind to continue her university studies), renting the house, redirecting mail  and finishing renovations.....the day to embark on our adventure was here.

We have to say that this trip’s inspiration has come from our friends Jan and Mark Devine and their four beautiful girls.In 2008/2009, they did a lap, taking over a year, arriving home in December (perfect timing for us to buy their truck!!). We would receive monthly emails updating their travels and were so inspired, that now we have the courage to carve out our own road.

The day started early, thankfully with a knock on the door at 6am, otherwise we would not have woken. It was Mark, with a bottle of champagne and a helping hand  to assist in getting the van hooked up to the truck. Thank you Devine’s!!!

After a teary goodbye with Jas, we departed our Willoughby home at 8.08AM towing our new home.  With large coffee in hand and french pastries, compliments of our gorgeous neighbours, The Crowleys( who have adopted  our groodle ,Louis, for 6 months) we were excited and nervous . Yep, it was peak hour, what the hell, let’s see the Sydney Harbour Bridge one last time....and towing the Jayco Expanda no less....an hilarious Griswald sight!!

After a lunch stop in Berri and numerous bathroom stops (get in sync girls!!) we arrived at our first stop just after 5:30 – Eden.  We stayed 4 days on beautiful Two Fold Bay and we loved getting out the bikes and riding together along the beachfront.Sas & Bella are loving the space. Bike riding is going to be the ‘thing’ for this trip.One morning we went for a ride in and through Eden. We came across an historic, cute little hall overlooking the sea that was once a  church . It has been recently converted to a Mary Macillop  museum.  Saskia brought home a prayer card. Last night Sas was reading the card and asking questions. " Mum,what's an Apostle again?" Sas asked. Danielle replied "The 12 Apostles were Jesus' disciples ........" After a moment of quiet, Bella piped up with "Well, they're all rocks now!!" Boo has been keeping us all entertained with her passion and great sense of humour...even though she is a flea in a bottle( but in this case a caravan!)

We’ve been to the Bega cheese factory and to the Killer Whale Museum – ‘Old Tom’ what an amazing story.

We had to laugh as we enjoyed our gourmet Sydney delights in the Eden Tourist Park amongst the caravaners........There’s been Piper champagne, Peroni beer, Bunnamagoo wine, organic chicken, organic milk and veges….even organic pancakes!!  How long before it’s KFC & VB for breakfast?!??! Not on my watch, says Danielle!!

Already feeling the distance from home,  David went into town on Saturday night to watch the Waratah’s game. The first pub had one TV – the League. He went to the Amateur Fisherman’s Club – no Foxtel. The only other pub was the Australasian. They had the League on too.He was thankful though – they put on another TV in another room for him to watch…..for him, no one else......clearly, the Union is not the game on the far south coast.

Pics:














Leaving 60 Sydney Street Willoughby














Girls are ready....















Sydney Harbour Bridge


Our 'rig' in Berri














Making cheese in Bega















Cheers!!















OK girls, you have to help - please fold the washing.



Map:


















More photos:
Sydney
Eden