We spent the afternoon in the Adelaide art gallery and saw the Big Mother exhibition. It was an amazing fibreglass, silicone, leather and human hair sculpture of a human like primate holding and breast feeding a human infant. It was inspired by a true story of an ape losing her newborn to death, and being so struck by grief, that she actually stole a human baby to suckle and care for. The baby was recovered shortly afterward, unharmed. The sculpture was designed to show how intimately we are evolutionarily connected to primates and how they are capable of such human feelings. It was a little confronting for the girls at first, but after reading about the artist and her work, they actually understood it all very well and enjoyed the whole experience.
That night, we were treated to a home cooked meal at the Wotton house, David’s uncle's family home. After almost 2 months on the road, it was a real treat to be in a large, beautiful home in Sterling (the Adelaide Hills) and have a home cooked meal at a proper dining table! Sterling was a cute little town, full of character- reminiscent of some of the gorgeous towns like Mill Valley that we often visited during our time living in San Francisco.
More Adelaide Photos
We continued north, passing through Hahndorf, a gorgeous town settled by Germans and home to the Berenberg farm which produces a huge variety of jams, pickles, sauces and much more. We were able to pick fresh strawberries by hand- they were absolutely huge, red and juicy! We bought all that the girls could fit in their containers and ate them in the car en route to Clare.
The Clare Valley is beautiful wine country, renowned for its Riesling and Shiraz. We spent 3 nights here cycling along the Riesling bike trails and visiting wineries. Bella celebrated her 8th birthday here. She opted not to have a cake, but rather, homemade pancakes with lashings of whipped cream (as much as she could stomach!) AND...........from a squirting can no less!! (How did that one slip through the organic net?!!!) David had been sent into Coles to pick up the cream....THAT"S HOW!! (Though it was real cream)
Jasmine skyped in and watched Boo open all her presents. It was a lot of fun and it was amazing how much skyping helps you to feel connected. We had a beautiful lunch at a local winery, then an afternoon at a beautiful English maze and dinner at the local pub. The entire restaurant had its lights dimmed and everyone in the place sang happy birthday!
More Clare Photos
After all her close encounters with animals, Bella has decided to buy a Shetland pony with her birthday money from Grandma!!! We tried to explain that the money, (while overly generous!) would probably not even pay for one hoof of a horse. So in her entrepreneurial style, she has taken to trying to earn pocket money any way she can. She has opened a massaging business charging us per minute and timing it all on her iPod. She has also taken to hair dressing and here is her latest victim.......
These are consequences, dad, for allowing yourself to become long haired and ferrel!!
Our resident 'Shackleton Shirley' is now know as 'Shackers'
En route to Streaky Bay (a long 7 hour arduous traveling day), we pulled into a desolate old mining town known as "Iron Knob". It has recently been bypassed by a new highway, so it really is QUIET. The petrol station/takeaway/fastfood was like something out of a time warp, with stale vats of oil for frying the hot chips and dusty postcards of a forgotten town on the counter. A rugged jean clad man burst out to the bowser, slamming the flyscreen door that was hanging on by its last rusty nail. He was so pleased to see us as I think we were his only customer for the day. He had thick coke bottle glasses and a long greasy mullet. "G'day mate, love your rig. Can I fill her up for you?" He was such a character and the salt of the Aussie earth. He proceeded to tell us the history of this little town which has nonchalant emus strolling over the roads oblivious to car horns. We could hardly get away! The true Australian dunny out the back sums it up.....
Streaky Bay was only a small town with a beautiful little bay, a long jetty and a replica of a great white caught by a local on a fishing rod (made famous by Alison Lester in Are We There Yet?) The girls stuck their heads in the shark's mouth just like the kids in the book!
We did a little bike riding and a beautiful walk, but the weather was disappointing, so we found a fabulous little rustic cafe overlooking the bay and did some schoolwork over lunch. We all tried the salt and pepper sting ray and really loved it! We decided to pack up and leave a day earlier than originally planned...and it was not because of the weather...... Over the past few months, there had been a mouse problem in the south of SA due to the bumper crops of 2009. Huge grain stores have meant massive mouse reproduction and we experienced the tail end (no pun intended!) of the plague. So, while Dan can handle a river python around her neck and pecking emus, she doesn't ‘do rodents’ - it was the speediest pack-up so far!
More Streaky Bay Photos
We decided to drive that afternoon to Fowlers bay. We did not realize that the 16km unsealed road into the town off the Eyre Highway would be so badly graded and it was a very slow and dusty journey. So slow, that Dan and Sas got out and ran alongside the truck to get some exercise. We finally arrived in the dark, to what appeared to be a hick and spooky little town with a tiny dustbowl of a caravan park. We were greeted however, by a very friendly man at the little corner store who did all the bookings and he made us very welcome. He even gave Dan an early mother's day card! The next morning was magic. We awakened to clear blue skies and the most spectacular sand dunes overlooking the bay.
We climbed to the top. The sand felt like soft cool powder and when you planted your foot into the side of the dune, the upper layers of sand rolled down like liquid icing flowing over the side of a cake. It was quite amazing. The girls absolutely loved it and we snapped some beautiful pictures of them sliding down. The original town is now buried under those sand dunes. It was once a home to kangaroo hunters who used to ship kangaroo skins to the USA as upholstery for railway carriage seating. Years of encroaching sand meant eventual relocation of the town to where it stands today...so small and sleepy, but with a jewel amongst it all.
We met a local fisherman on the jetty and asked if he had any luck. "Yep" he replied, "I woke up this mornin', I reckon there's some luck in that!"
More Fowlers Bay Photos
After another very slow exit along the dusty unsealed and corrugated road, we then travelled further west along the Eyre highway and began our journey across the Nullarbor. It really is the ultimate in road trips and only for the dedicated "Lapper." It was vast, flat, straight and a long way between roadhouses. At Head of Bight, the northern most point of the Great Australian Bight, we pulled into the little visitors centre to walk down the timber walkways to the edge of the vast Southern Ocean - it was aqua blue, wild and beautiful. The sheer limestone cliff faces looked like they had been sliced away with a carving knife.
Unfortunately, we were too early for the migrating whales, but we will catch them in June in Exmouth as we head north.
Nullarbor is from the Latin ‘nullus’ (no) and ‘arbor’ (tree). We were expecting a dry, parched orange land with little life. So, we were very surprised to see the land covered in green shrubs and towards end, scattered trees that looked like broccoli florets. It was the result of all the recent rain. We saw emus, kangaroos, eagles and big black crows feeding on road kill. We travelled the longest stretch of straight road in Australia (146km). Every now and then there would be a tree adorned with paraphernalia from passing travellers. One of our favourites was the one full of underpants - all shapes and sizes, boxer shorts, lacy nickers, G-strings, bonds Y fronts - an hilarious mix!!! Another was one adorned with all sorts of appliances- old kettles, toasters, hairdryers and more. They added such amusement to the endless driving and you felt such a connection with past travellers who had made this epic journey.
The sunsets were spectacular - the sun was a deep orange glowing ball and cruising along to the tunes of Angus and Julia Stone was a highlight.
Our plan was to stay in Eucla in Western Australia, but after seeing what food we would have to throw out by crossing the quarantine border we instead remained in South Australia and stayed at ‘Border Village Roadhouse’ and ate all our fresh food for dinner / breakfast. Border Village is like many of the stops along the Nullarbor – basically a petrol station with some scant accommodation and the obligatory Aussie pub. We pushed off early for what was an epic 12 hour day to complete the Nullarbor journey ending in Norseman around 9:30pm. There was quite a beautiful eeriness making this crossing, so long, yet not boring…..but happy to have made it.
More Border Village Photos
More Norseman Photos
So here we are in WA, heading for the coast. Walt and Tilli are doing us proud.....
Our dear friends in Sydney, the Rechners, have appropriately named us as the 'fucarwi' tribe....always wanting to know 'where the f... are we'?!?!?!
Over and out!!
